Pre-Ride Bike Checks Go Wrong—Here’s 7 Ways to Get It Right

A SHOP-TESTED CHECKLIST FOR TIRES, BRAKES, DRIVETRAIN, BEARINGS, AND THE TIMING THAT PREVENTS LAST-MINUTE PANIC.

BY Jason Griffith, Jason Summer

 Published: Oct 05, 2026 4:23 PM EDT

Step 1: The wipe-down

Cleaning the bike

Place your bike in a repair stand. If the bike is just a little dusty, just give it a good wipe down with a rag. If it is truly dirty, remove both wheels and wash it thoroughly. Keep your eyes out for any cracks or frame issues while cleaning the bike. I know this is worst case scenario, but I’ve seen it happen before.

If the drivetrain is grimy, spray the bike chain and derailleurs with degreaser and let sit for a few minutes. Fill the bucket with warm, soapy water. Wet a sponge, hold it on the chain, and turn the crank to draw the chain through the sponge until the links are clean. Clean the crankset and derailleurs as well. Then clean the frame and parts (including the wheels) with a fresh sponge. Rinse by dripping water from above. (Don’t spray high-pressure water directly at the bike because this can force water into the bearings.) Dry the bike and all parts with clean rags.

Step 2: Tire check

Inflate the tires and inspect

If you spot a piece of debris lodged in your tire, try carefully picking it out. Inspect your bike tires for cracks, cuts, blisters, and baldness. Replace tires as needed.

Also, check tire seating. There are lines on the base of the sidewalls that should sit just above the rim all the way around. If they dip below the rim edge or rise above it, the tire is not seated properly. If you find any of these problems, deflate the tire and reinflate it, making sure that it seats correctly. Reinstall the wheels on the bike, making sure that they are centered in the frame and the quick-releases are properly tightened.

If you run tubeless, this is a good time to check sealant as well. Before a big ride (especially off-road) I tend to top off sealant because I’d rather have a little more than too little. The best way to check sealant is to remove the tire, check sealant, and reinstall the tire. Admittedly, I don’t always go this route. My quick check is to remove the wheel and shake it to check if I can feel the sealant sloshing around in the tire—you will likely be able to hear it in there as well. If you can’t hear anything, it’s worth taking off the tire to inspect and see if there’s a lot of dried sealant. If there is this can impact how well the sealant does what it’s supposed to: seal.

Step 3: Drivetrain and tools

Checking the crank and pedals

You want to check and snug chainring bolts from time to time. Though major components should not come loose during normal use, it is still wise to check them periodically. Without forcing, tighten crank bolts, pedals, chainring bolts, stem binder, handlebar binder, seat binder, seat bolt, brake and derailleur attaching nuts/bolts, and bottle cage screws. (Everything is turned clockwise to tighten except the left pedal, which is turned counterclockwise.)

Also, make sure all your repair gear is in proper working order, including a pump or CO2 inflator. This is a good time to check if your extra AXS battery is charged and check if your electronic pump is charged, if using those pieces of gear. Another key is to make sure your extra tube (bring an extra tube on a long ride) is in good working order.

Step 4: Bike chain

Lubing the chain

Keeping your chain and other bike parts properly lubricated is critical to a properly functioning—not to mention quiet—bike. If they are not internally routed, lube your bike’s shifter cables where they pass under the bottom bracket. Lube the chain, then shift through the gears repeatedly to test derailleur adjustments.

Because the rear derailleur’s cable is longer and gets more use, it’s more likely to go out of adjustment. Each click of the rear shift lever should cause the bike chain to immediately jump to the next cog. If not, the cable has probably stretched slightly, or you may have mistakenly adjusted it too tight. If the chain hesitates to go to a larger cog, the cable is slightly loose. If the chain is slow in moving to a smaller cog, the cable is too tight. Fix slow shifts to larger cogs by turning the adjustment barrel on the rear of the derailleur counterclockwise in half-turn increments. For slow shifts to smaller cogs, do the opposite.

For  electronic shifting systems, do the same test, running through both front and rear shifting to make sure everything is operating properly. If you do discover any problems, consult the appropriate troubleshooting manual for your components to help diagnose and remedy the problem. Adjusting electronic systems is typically much easier than traditional mechanical shifting drivetrains. In fact, as long as your battery is adequately charged, it’s unlikely you’ll have to do much adjusting at all. Just make sure you’re fully charged before the big ride. Without a charged battery, your electronic system will not work, and there are few things worse than being stuck in one gear all day.

If things are out of alignment and you can’t figure out why, it could be the derailleur hanger. This is one more reason to get this checklist done at least a week out from your big ride. If your hanger is out of alignment sometimes it can be bent back, but other times it needs to be replaced. If you have a universal derailleur hanger (UDH), then it is pretty accessible at most shops. Otherwise the part may have to be ordered. A derailleur hanger is one part I always like to have an extra one or two of at home that are specific to the bikes I have.

Step 5: Brake pads

Rotor between the pads

Disc brakes are being found on more and more modern bikes, especially hydraulic disc brakes. If your hydraulic disc brakes feel soft or your brake levers come all the way to the bars, then it’s likely time to call the local shop for a brake bleed. With that being said, there are still things you can check on these brakes at home. While the wheels are in the bike, spin the wheel to eye up the rotor—it can help to have a flashlight here. While the wheel is spinning, check if you hear the rotor hitting the brake pad. If it’s hitting, you will hear a noticeable noise, and you can confirm by shining the flashlight between the rotors and pads. If it’s rubbing, the rotor may need to be realigned, or the calipers may need to get reset. Once you check the rotor, then drop the wheel out to check the pads with the flashlight; there should be at least 1.5 mm of meat on the pads.

For rim brake pads, a small turn of your brake’s barrel adjuster will move your pads in or out. Inspect all four of your bike’s brake pads. If the grooves are worn away, it’s time to replace the pads. Make sure that they strike the rim squarely. If not, use an Allen wrench to loosen the nut that secures the pad and reposition it. Squeeze the brake levers to feel the action. The pads should strike the rim well before the levers approach the handlebar. If not, tighten the brake by turning the barrels on the brake calipers. If it’s one piece, turn it counterclockwise until the pads are 1/8- to 1/4-inch away from the rim.

When I’m checking out my brake pads, I will also typically eye up my wheel as it comes through the frame to see if the wheel is out of true. Using the frame as a bit of a guide, it’s easier to see if the wheel has any wobble. If it needs to be realigned and truing a wheel is outside your scope, then see if your local shop has the time to true a wheel before your big ride. This is one more reason why it’s important to run through your bike at least a week before your big ride.

Step 6: Headset and bottom bracket

Headset adjustment

Make sure there is no play in your headset by properly tightening the stem cap: Stand in front of the bike, holding the fork in one hand and the down tube in the other. Push and pull on the fork to check for any movement in the headset. Rotate the fork slowly from side to side to feel for roughness. If it’s loose or tight, loosen the stem bolts, then remove play or tightness by adjusting the Allen screw atop the stem, and finish by securing the stem bolts.

Now check the bottom bracket bearings: Stand beside the frame, hold the crank arms, and push and pull, feeling for play. Most bottom brackets are sealed and reliable. If yours is loose, have a shop remove the crank arms and adjust it.

Test before your ride

Test ride

Once you’ve run through all these steps, take your bike for a short test ride. Shift and brake repeatedly, making adjustments as necessary. Very consciously listen for any rattles or other unwanted noises while you ride. I even like to wear my exact kit I’ll be wearing on the upcoming ride to make sure everything is tested together. Now you’re ready for your big ride—confident that as long as your body cooperates, there is nothing to prevent you from successfully getting to the finish line.

Keep in mind shops can sometimes squeeze in a wheel true, pad swap, or chain replacement throughout the course of a few days, but that doesn’t mean they can also do a full tune-up on the bike while it’s there. I used to let customers know that we would do our best to squeeze the smaller services in before an event, but come back afterward for a full tune-up. This also ensures your bike gets the love it needs after your big ride.